I had read about Bodie a number of times. It sounded interesting, but it has always been a four to five hour drive from where we lived so it didn’t sound worth the trip.
Recently we planned a trip to Lake Tahoe. While looking at the route, I saw that a side trip to Bodie was only about a 25-minute drive down a side road (partially unpaved). That seemed much more reasonable, so we worked it in to our plans.
As soon as we arrived we knew we had made the right decision. We were surprised at how many structures were still standing after nearly 170 years! Of course many are in disrepair, yet many are in decent condition and have been preserved with repairs such as new roofs. The structures are spread over a large area and we only walked around maybe half of them.
The other surprising thing about their condition is the color of the wood they are built of. In most of the areas I have either lived in or explored in California, bare wood turns gray as it ages. In Bodie, however, the wooden buildings have retained much of that red-brown-tan color of fresh wood, which makes for picturesque scenery.
I’ll let the photos tell the rest of the story. I highly recommend making the trip, and I expect to visit again soon!
My wife has been saying for some time that she wanted to raise chickens. We tried our hand at it when we were house sitting a couple years ago. At the time we were on a five-month house sit which included, among other things, an abandoned chicken coop. With the owner’s permission, we cleaned up the coop and adopted three cochin chickens. Since the chickens were already mature, they began laying about a month after we picked them up. (It takes them a little while to adjust to a new situation.) This experience gave us the confidence that one day we could try it fully on our own.
We continued house sitting and traveling for some time after we left that sit, so we weren’t able to get started on anything right away. But that day has finally come. We now have our own rural, 5-acre property. One of the first projects I took on was building a coop for our future chickens. Here’s the story in pictures…
The first thing to do was select a place for the coop. We wanted spot that was not super close to the house, yet still convenient enough to walk over to it multiple times per day. We have a lot of dead trees and undergrowth, so the first step was clearing some space.
Once the dead trees were cleared, we had to decide on the actual spot. My wife wanted a place under the trees that would provide shade and protection, especially during our hot summers. We found this spot between two trees that were just over nine feet apart. (I’ll explain the digging out of this area further below.)
You’ll note there are already chickens in the photo. We got a little ahead of ourselves and rescued eight hens from a friend. The same friend gave us an old coop that we were able to use to temporarily house them. They seemed to know from the beginning this was going to be their spot, and they loved to be near me when I was working on the coop.
Next we had to purchase materials to build the coop. All we have is a minivan, but it has proven to be remarkably versatile. The longer boards in this photo are 16 feet long. We were able to fit 4×8 sheets of plywood flat on the floor inside the van. Everything we needed was brought up in the van.
In the next photo you can see why I dug out the whole floor area of the coop. We have a major problem with ground-burrowing rodents of some sort – not sure if they are gophers, moles, voles, or what, but they are everywhere on our property. We wanted to keep them out of the coop, not knowing if they would try to get at the chicken feed or who knows what.
So I dug out the area to about 10 inches, the depth of the support piers. I laid ½-inch hardware cloth across the bottom, wrapped it up the outside of the piers, and fastened it to the underside of the 4” x 4” foundation boards.
I then threw the dirt back in, up to the bottom of the foundation boards.
Next I built the walls of the coop. I built them on the ground and then stood them up once they were all completed and could support each other. You’ll see in the background of this photo a flock of 20+ wild turkeys. They don’t often get this close to me, but they do visit frequently. They chickens and turkeys visit some of the same spots but they seem to ignore each other.
The chickens are always interested in checking out the progress on their future home.
Here you’ll see the four walls standing up. It is eight feet tall on the right and six feet on the left. It doesn’t need to be so tall, but since the boards come in eight-foot lengths, I figured, why not? You can also see that I have begun fastening hardware cloth to the 2×4’s. From what I read, this should be sufficient to keep out all but the largest predators, such as bears. There is the possibility of a bear visiting us here, but for the most part they remain at higher elevations than where we’re located. Behind the coop you’ll see a partial frame laying on the ground. That is going to be the floor for the enclosed portion of the coop.
In this photo you can see that most of the screening material has been completed. You can also see that the coop floor mentioned in the previous photo has now been installed. I installed this base with a slight slope. It is one inch higher on the left side than on the right. The idea is that when we clean out the coop, any water will easily drain.
We decided to go with a full roof rather than something like corrugated steel. It seemed like the temperature variability might be less dramatic, since steel sheets radiate so much heat. The laddering structure on the ends is something I saw recommended online. I’m a hobbyist, not a roofer, but it looked like a good idea so I went with it. I used 2×6’s for the rafters; they’re 10 feet long, and the unsupported span is a little over eight feet.
I topped the rafters with ½-inch, exterior grade plywood, roofing felt, and then asphalt shingles. Here it is, mostly complete, except for the last row. I needed to purchase another piece of edge flashing before I could finish it.
Moving on to the enclosed coop portion… Earlier I mentioned the frame for the coop floor. Here the frame has been covered with plywood, and I have added an extension for the nesting boxes. Once again the chickens are eager to explore.
Here’s a top view, looking down into the nesting boxes. There are three boxes, which should be sufficient for the number of chickens we expect to have. The partitions are removable as is the piece of wood that spans across the three boxes, to make it easier to clean.
I covered the floor of the coop with a single piece of vinyl linoleum, again to make it easier to clean and maintain.
This photo is from the same angle as the previous one. Here you can see I built a divider, to provide a separate space for storage. The lower portion of the divider is removable.
Here’s the storage side in use, after painting…
And here is the chicken side of the coop, painted with some leftover paint I had. I installed manzanita branches for them to roost on.
I couldn’t resist sharing this photo of one of our most curious chickens, peeking through the gap in the divider.
I haven’t shown any photos from the rear. Here you can see a nearly complete coop, with the roof on, the doors on, the nesting boxes, and a “window”. We had salvaged some old shutters from our old house, and finally found a use for one of them. I think the coop has plenty of ventilation since the upper portion (the triangular section) is completely open, but this gives them a little more along with adding some visual interest.
Here’s a nearly complete view from the front. You can see the enclosed coop part in the back, along with the screen door I built with 1×3’s and hardware cloth.
Here is the front after adding a rain gutter and painting the exterior.
This is a side view of the tall side. Spring has brought tall grass and lots of flowers!
Finally, this was the finishing touch I added for my wife – a little shelf to put her coffee on, her phone, iPad, or other items. I learned a lot on this project. And now the learning will continue as we populate the coop and go about raising chickens!
From Scotland we drove back to Central England to return the rental car. We spent a night at a unique AirBnB, on a small boat in Midlands. We chose this spot in part for its uniqueness, but also because it was very close to Midlands airport, out of which we would be flying early in the morning on our way to London to wind down our tour of Europe.
London was fascinating, with a lot to see. It’s a large city, but reasonably easy to navigate via the subway (the “tube”), buses and on foot. With a week to explore on our own, we felt that we got to see all the highlights we wanted to.
It was mid-October when we were in London. Although the number of tourists typically starts to dwindle in September after the summer high season, we still found many places crowded. I like to tell people the photo below was our only view of the Changing of the Guard. That’s not entirely true, but it does illustrate the crowds we encountered.
We enjoyed visiting museums in London, especially since many offer free admission. Of course they are also nice because as well-known museums in a large city, they are able to acquire some of the most sought-after works of art. Van Gogh is consistently one of my favorite artists, and I enjoyed seeing a number of his works.
In an unscientific survey of costs during our travels, we would say that Copenhagen and Zurich were the most expensive cities we visited in Europe. Prague was the least expensive. Berlin was somewhere in between. London was not as expensive as Copenhagen and Zurich, but is was certainly not inexpensive. One thing that seemed expensive in London was transportation. In order to visit my cousin on the outskirts of London, we took a public bus plus a train for a portion of the trip, and the total cost was the equivalent of about $72 US for two of us to make the round trip. Many people make this commute daily to work in the city, so this must be quite expensive on an annual basis.
A note about traveling in London – if you ever find yourself flying to or from the Stansted area, I highly recommend the Hampton by Hilton London Stansted Airport for its convenience. You could almost say it is located inside the airport. Actually it is across the street, but it is within easy walking distance, mostly via a covered walkway that protects you from the weather. We had an early morning flight, and staying at the Hampton Stansted ensured that we would be on time. I would also give a shout out to the hotel staff, who were some of the best we’ve encountered at Hampton Inn. They made it a truly great experience for our brief stay.
As we had done in our earlier travel in Europe, we rented a car to get to our house sit in central England in order to have the freedom to explore. It also enabled us to explore other parts of the country after the house sit was complete. We drove north to visit Scotland, both Glasgow on the west side and Edinburgh to the east.
We found the people to be friendly and outgoing. When we first arrived at the street where our AirBnB was located, a man noticed us looking around and asked if he could help us find anything. We were approached by another local the next morning while having breakfast at a nearby café; she just wanted to chat for a few minutes.
We also found a similar sentiment to what I mentioned in an earlier post: the Scottish and the English are not on what you might call the best of terms. One of the museums we visited proudly displayed the following excerpt from the Declaration of Arbroath from 1320: “As long as only one hundred of us remain alive we will never on any conditions be brought under English rule. For we fight not for glory, nor for riches, nor for honours, but for freedom alone, which no good man gives up except with his life.”
We stayed in a working-class neighborhood in tenement housing. I had heard the word “tenement” before, but didn’t actually know what it meant. As I understand it now, it is an apartment building, maybe three or four stories tall, where a common front door leads to several units inside. The tenements in the neighborhood we stayed in were around 110-140 years old. There was a train within walking distance that made for an easy trip into Edinburgh.
We had our rental car, but we decided leave the car parked at the AirBnB and to take the train into the city instead of driving, dealing with potential traffic congestion, and finding and paying for parking. As it turned out, we were very happy about this decision. We didn’t know about it beforehand, but the Scottish Communist Party held a major rally, which blocked many of the main roads for several hours. Tour buses, taxis – everyone was stuck in traffic. We were so happy to have arrived by train and to be exploring on foot. I have to throw in one political comment about this rally – I found it ironic that a major rallying cry by these Communist Party protesters was for freedom!
We did discover a little of the Scottish sense of humor during our visit. The tour guide on the hop on hop off bus explained that in most countries’ judicial systems, a defendant on trial will be found either “Guilty” or “Not guilty”. Scotland has another option – “Not proven”, or in other words, “We know you did it, we just can’t prove it”, also referred to as “getting off Scot free”. The photo below contains another example. Instead of using the official name of this bridge, locals refer to it as the “squinty bridge” because it doesn’t cross the river perpendicularly, but at an angle.
After traveling on our own in Ireland, we took a flight to the central part of England and settled into another house sit. This time we had just one dog. We enjoyed walking him around the neighborhood and meeting locals. We were able to leave him alone for a few hours per day and explore some of central England.
Our first stop was Leicester, birthplace of King Richard III. As an American, one of the surprising things we run into frequently in Europe is places or objects that are many centuries old. This is less common in the US and even less so in the western US where I have spent most of my years.
Next we visited Nottingham, of Robin Hood fame. Most of the original castle was demolished long ago, but some walls remain along with a later-built mansion that now serves as a museum. Unfortunately for us, the museum had closed a month earlier for a multi-year renovation.
Back near our house sit in Loughborough we came across this sign on an apartment for rent. What is the difference between “Coming soon” and “Coming soon-ish”?
After finishing up our house sit in Howth, we toured other parts of Ireland on our own, including taking guided bus tours of Connemara and the Burren/Moher areas. Here are some of the things we learned.
Britain taxed light, i.e., windows, so people looked for ways to minimize the tax. Split doors were installed because a split door allowed in light but was not taxed as window. In the photo below of the Bank of Ireland you can see that they completely bricked in the windows to avoid the tax.
I apologize for the poor quality of the following photo, taken from the bus, but I included it because it illustrates several things: note how the traditional cottage has small windows and a split door due to the light tax. It also has a thatched roof, which is becoming less and less common. Thatched roofs are expensive to install (the equivalent of over $30,000 US) and insurance is high due to flammability of the roof.
Everywhere we visited in Ireland and later Scotland, we noted that the people spoke with animosity about the British. Likewise, the British spoke disparagingly about the Irish and Scottish. Undoubtedly, the history runs deep. Here is a small example of the history and ongoing attitude of the Irish toward the British. Below is a photo of what are called “famine walls” – labor intensive walls made from thousands of stones. These were part of a governmental make-work program by the British to keep out-of-work Irish people busy and provide some income during famine. The walls didn’t have any other purpose, for example, they didn’t divide one property from another.
The Burren is a rocky area on the coast of Ireland, scraped bare by ancient glaciers. The tour guide summed up the Burren as follows – There’s water, but not enough to drown a man; there’s wood, but not enough to hang a man; there’s soil, but not enough to bury him.
Finally, I have to mention that we stayed in a wonderful bed and breakfast, Clooniff House, in Galway. The proprietress and her husband were so friendly and accommodating, she cooked up a great, traditional breakfast for us each morning, and she gave us great tips and assistance with our tour reservations.
After leaving Prague, we drove back toward Copenhagen, passing briefly through Zurich, Switzerland, and again through Germany. Then we flew to Dublin, Ireland, for the first of our European house sits.
The actual location was in Howth, Ireland, a small fishing community across the bay from Dublin. For this sit we had one cat and two dogs to look after. We were there for eight days, and the weather was amazing, with just one day of rain.
Prague surprised me. I didn’t know much about Prague, and I wouldn’t have included it in our itinerary, except that Maricela’s sister had spent a semester there during her college years and often spoke highly of it. So we included a two-day stop there, and we’re glad we did. There is so much history and beauty here!
Soon after we arrived, we did what we generally do upon arriving in another country, find an ATM and withdraw some local funds. Prague is a big city so we had no trouble finding an ATM. I requested the equivalent of about $300 US, and the machine asked if I wanted to select what denomination bills or if I wanted to take the default denominations determined by the machine. I didn’t think much of it and selected the default. Unfortunately, it dispensed one large bill worth nearly $300! Our next stop was to find a place to eat. Before being seated, we asked at a restaurant if they would have change for our $300 bill, and they did, so our problem was solved.
We signed up for a walking tour that we found on the Experiences section of the AirBnB site and the guide did an amazing job. Read the captions on the following photos for a few random facts shared during our tour.
We rented a car in Copenhagen, took a ferry to Germany, and drove to our first stop, in Berlin. We had hoped that by renting a car and doing our own driving we would get to see more of each country, including small towns, countryside and local residents. Unfortunately, we ended up driving primarily on large interstate highways. This made for fast, efficient travel, but it was less picturesque than we had hoped for.
One of the first places we visited in Berlin was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. There are 2,711 gray stone blocks of various sizes. A fellow traveler, visiting from Australia, summed it up in one word: Confronting.
Berlin Wall – only a few remnants have been preserved. However, they have installed a walkway throughout the city, marking where the wall formerly stood. There are a lot of reminders all around the city of damage that was caused during the war.
We found a great café around the block from our AirBnB. The food appeared to be carefully prepared, the atmosphere was relaxed, and the prices were reasonable. We also found a good restaurant for dinner. The menu was available only in German, although the helpful waitress spoke English well. Maricela and I each just selected an item at random from the menu, hoping we would like it. Thankfully it worked out well for both of us. An interesting thing after the meal – we left the helpful waitress a tip of about 15%; she came and talked to us and told us the tip amount was too much. Imagine that happening in the US! (In the end, we convinced her to keep the full amount.)
Traffic and parking were a bit of a challenge, but we survived unscathed.
One of the European cities participating in the Icelandair fare sale was Copenhagen, Denmark. The good part about this is that Copenhagen was definitely on our “must visit” list, because we have relatives there who just had a baby and we wanted to visit them. The not-as-good part is that the Baltic Sea separates Copenhagen from continental Europe. That means we either had to fly or take a ferry across the Baltic. It’s not a huge problem, it’s just another expense that needed to be included in our budget. And it needed to be accounted for on a round trip basis; since we flew into Copenhagen, we would need to get back there to fly home.
Here are my first impressions of Copenhagen:
It appeared to be clean, everywhere we looked. There was no trash or other debris on the streets. The one odd exception is that we found several bicycles tossed into the canals.
We took the train several times, and it always arrived and departed right on schedule. We are from the San Francisco Bay Area, where we have the BART subway system. The BART trains have conductors piloting the trains. Before leaving a station, the BART conductor will visually look down the platform to make sure no one is still stepping onto the train before closing the doors and departing. In Denmark, the trains are automated with no conductor, so passengers are on their own to avoid the closing doors.
Strangers on the street were not particularly friendly, at least not very outgoing. However, we stayed at three different AirBnB’s, and all of the hosts were extremely accommodating. All the hosts were warm, inviting and welcoming, with one family inviting us to join them for dinner. We definitely enjoyed our AirBnB experiences in Copenhagen.
This will likely not be a surprise to anyone, but the reports are true, there are bicycles everywhere! I haven’t seen this many bicycles in use since visiting the Santa Barbara and Davis university campuses in California. The good thing is, the cyclists behave in very orderly fashion. At one point we observed a long queue of cyclists lined up waiting for a drawbridge to close – everyone waited patiently, within the lines on their side of the bike lane.
The cost of living seemed high, even for basic necessities such as food. Our first meal was lunch at a food truck style food court. We ordered a simple, carryout lunch of Mongolian barbecue ribs, curry cauliflower, and one piece of flat bread; the cost, including taxes but not drinks, came to the equivalent of about $36 US. Unlike the US, no tipping is required here. For comparison, we recently had a similar meal in the US; we paid $22, including tax, and added a $4 tip, so $36 vs. $26. I added a small hot chocolate to my Copenhagen meal, and it cost over $7, which is also significantly more than what a similar drink would cost in the US. Likewise, the tax on the purchase of new automobiles is high. It has fluctuated in recent years, but it has been as high as 180%, making a $25,000 vehicle cost $70,000.
We had good food, we enjoyed places such as Tivoli Gardens, and we had a great time visiting relatives. We would love to return to Copenhagen again one day.
As retirees on a fixed income, we generally look for ways to minimize our travel expenses. That is why most of our travel is to places where we can drive rather than having to pay for airfare. It’s also part of the reason why we look for house sits whenever we can.
We had had our eye on visiting Europe for a long time but hadn’t felt we could fit it in to our budget. There were certain places that we were especially interested in seeing and we also had some relatives in Europe who we wanted to visit.
Two things came together that helped us to finally take the leap and go to Europe. First, and most importantly, Icelandair had a sale on airfares between several East Coast cities in the US and a few cities in Europe. Normally we are located in the western US, but due to our recent Massachusetts house sit, we could easily fly out of Boston, which was one of the participating cities. Second, we lined up a couple of house sits in Europe, which would reduce our lodging expenses there.
We organized the trip such that we would travel on our own for about two weeks, then house sit for a week, travel again on our own, house sit for another week, and finish up with some more travel on our own. This would help break up the trip, giving us periods of time when we would be traveling and sightseeing, interspersed with more restful periods when we would spend a full week at someone’s home, taking care of their pets, and washing our laundry.
We haven’t traveled like this before. Stay tuned to see how it works out!
Once we completed our house sit in western Massachusetts, we drove east to explore Boston and other more touristy areas. Boston felt reasonably compact – we were able to get around nearly everywhere on foot. We also felt that with four full days there, we were able to visit all the places we wanted to.
Our favorite way for experiencing Boston was a walking tour. Of course, we were walking around the city on the hottest day since 1953, at 98 degrees, but we had a great time, nevertheless. The most amusing moment was when the tour guide stopped us at a pay phone. There were several children on the tour who had never seen a pay phone. One said, “What the heck is that?” Another asked, “Does it have data?” Times change.
There are a ton of historical sites in Boston and visiting the actual sites where history happened really enriches one’s understanding of history. Some of the highlights for me were the site of the Boston massacre, the house where Paul Revere raised his 16 children, the USS Constitution, the buildings where critical meetings were held and decisions were made. There’s so much to walk around, experience and learn about, and history comes alive all around!
I am unable to post a video directly to this site; you can see a very short video of history coming alive on YouTube at: https://youtu.be/2nQisSxe-fI
To end this post, let me offer a money-saving tip for travelers – after Boston, our plan was to fly to Europe for six weeks. Parking is expensive in the Boston area and would have added a lot to the overall cost of our Europe trip. So we went on Craigslist and searched for people offering parking at their homes. We found a place near the airport, parked our van there and took a bus to the airport. Parking for the full six weeks cost us just $150.
Here are a few items that didn’t merit a full blog post of their own, but that I still wanted to include.
Near the very small center of town in Heath, nestled among the prolific growth of hickory and maple trees in the area, lies a stone cottage that can easily be missed as you drive by. What makes this one notable is that for a time it was the occasional home of Reinhold Niebuhr. He was a renowned theologian of the first half of the 20th century. He is credited as the author of Serenity Prayer and is said to have first preached it in the church a few steps from the cottage.
We were surprised to learn of the artistic heritage of this part of New England. It seems that everywhere we turned we encountered art in one form or another – outdoor music events, writers, glass blowers, ceramics artists, artists of other media. In addition, there were multiple universities and art museums within an hour’s drive, including the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art, the Smith College Museum of Art, and the Clark Art Institute, with an extensive collection of works by Renoir.
Ticks have become a major problem in this part of the country. We saw them often, and both of us repeatedly found ticks on our skin. It put a damper on our desire to do outdoor activities. Upwards of 25% of ticks in the area test positive for Lyme disease, and we met people who had been impacted by debilitating cases of Lyme.
The locals say Massachusetts has two seasons: July and winter. Even though we were only there for five months, we felt we understood the meaning. We arrived in winter, which lasted much longer than what we’re used to in California; once it finally warmed up (around July), we started seeing signs of fall coming on. In reality the summertime weather we experienced in northwestern Massachusetts was very pleasant. It is not the same hot, humid weather you find in Boston. The extensive forests covering the landscape in every direction kept the temperature very pleasant. The one unusual weather event we experienced appeared to be a tornado; there was a distinct stretch of trees about two miles from our house sit where multiple trees had been blown down and the power went out for several hours.
One afternoon while taking a hike through the woods we noticed a couple of mushrooms growing on the forest floor. As we looked closer, we noticed other mushrooms. The more we looked, the more we found. We found pink mushrooms, yellow, black, brown, orange, large, small… it was amazing! Prior to this I had no awareness that mushrooms came in so many shapes, colors and sizes. It’s not something you see in the California suburbs!
I think of it as a county fair, but in this area they’re more commonly referred to as agricultural fairs. Heath hosts one of the more widely attended fairs in northwestern Massachusetts, attracting people from probably a 50-mile radius due to its advertising throughout the area. It was a treat to experience such a small town fair. In fact, we were not only attendees. We had met the fair director a few weeks earlier, and we were recruited to help sell tickets on the first day of the fair.